Konzekerani kulipira zambiri za tomato, popeza alimi aku California akusintha nyengo yoipa

Zolemba zofanana

Msuzi wa phwetekere ukumva kufinya ndipo ketchup sangagwire.

California imalima oposa 90 peresenti ya tomato wamzitini wa ku America ndi gawo limodzi mwa magawo atatu a dziko lonse lapansi. Chilala chomwe chikuchitika m’bomalo chasokoneza kubzala ndi kukolola mbewu zambiri zachilimwe, koma za njala ya madzi. "Tomato wokonza" amagwidwa muchinyengo kwambiri swirl (“tormado”?) ya mavuto omwe akatswiri amati angapangitse mitengo kuchulukira kwambiri kuposa momwe amachitira kale.

Chilalacho chikuwopseza kuwononga zinthu zina zomwe anthu aku America amakonda - pitsa msuzi, marinara, phwetekere phala, tomato wokazinga ndi ketchup zonse zimangotsala pang'ono. Ndipo izi zimabwera patangopita nthawi yodabwitsa, komanso yosagwirizana, kusowa kwa msuzi wa pizza ndi munthu payekha ketchup mapaketi pa kutalika kwa mliri wobweretsa chakudya-wopenga.

Izi zikubweranso pamwamba pa kukwera kwamitengo ya zipatso ndi ndiwo zamasamba, zomwe zakhala zikukwera kuyambira pomwe mliri wa coronavirus udalengezedwa chaka chatha.

Kwa tomato, mitengo yokwera ikhoza kuyamba posakhalitsa, atero katswiri wazachuma wa Wells Fargo a Michael Swanson.

"Ngati ndinu wopanga kapena wopanga zitini ndikuwona mavutowa akubwera, bwanji osakweza mitengo poyembekezera?" Iye adatero, akuwonjezera kuti ogula sawona mtengo wa tomato wambiri wokonzedwa omwe amadyedwa kutali ndi kwawo. "Zidayikidwa mu bolodi la menyu - koma ndi chifukwa chinanso mitengo ku Chipotle ndi Pizza Hut ikwera."

M’chaka chabwinobwino, Aaron Barcellos, mlimi wa ku Firebaugh, Calif., amalima maekala 2,200 a tomato wokonza. Chaka chino waganiza zogwetsa maekala 900 pafamu yake, yomwe ili kumalire a Merced ndi Fresno County. Wasiya maekala otsala osabzalidwa, akusankha kuyika madzi ake onse amtengo wapatali pa maamondi, pistachios ndi azitona zomwe zimabzalidwa pa trellises - mbewu zomwe zimakwera mtengo komanso zomwe zimayimira ndalama zomwe zatsika kale.

“Timapeza mvula ya mainchesi asanu ndi atatu m’chaka chabwino. Chaka chatha tinali ndi mainchesi 4½, "adatero. "Tidapeza ziro peresenti ya madzi omwe tidagawira, zomwe zidatikakamiza kugula madzi okwera mtengo kwambiri, ndipo sizomveka kuwayika pa tomato."

Udzu wouma m'munda wa Los Banos, Calif. (John Brecher wa The Washington Post)

Iye adati alimi ambiri apanga chisankho chogwiritsa ntchito madzi ochepa pa mbewu zokhazikika - mitengo ndi zinthu monga mipesa - kusankha kusiya kubzala chaka chilichonse monga tomato, anyezi ndi adyo, kapenanso kusiya mbewu zomwe zidabzalidwa kale kufota m'chipululu ngati mikhalidwe.

Kusowa kwa phwetekere kwa chaka chino kwakhala nthawi yayitali. Alimi anali atabzala kale tomato wocheperako. Kuyambira 2015 mpaka 2019, mayiko ochepa anali kuitanitsa tomato waku America, mwina chifukwa dola inali yamphamvu, zomwe zidapangitsa kuti zinthu za phwetekere zamzitini zaku US zikhale zodula. Izi zidapangitsa kuti tomato aku California achuluke kwambiri, adatero Rob Neenan, wamkulu wa California League of Food Producers.

Okonza amadula maoda awo ndipo alimi amalima maekala ochepa. Panthawi imodzimodziyo, chifukwa cha nkhondo yamalonda, kuchepa kwapadziko lonse kwazitsulo zomwe zimagwiritsidwa ntchito popanga zitini zopangira chakudya kungachititse kuti mitengo ikwere. Zomera zazikulu zopangira zinthu ku Williams, Lemoore ndi Stockton, Calif., zatsekedwa, kutchula ndalama zopangira zinthu zambiri, ndikusiya malo ochepa oti alimi azigulitsa. Zosungirako kumayambiriro kwa 2020 zinali zotsika ndipo zinthu zinali zitakhazikika padziko lonse lapansi.

Ndiyeno mliri unagunda. Chotsani kutentha kwa tomato.

Frank Muller, wolima phwetekere wamitundu yambiri komanso Purezidenti wa M Three Ranches ku Woodland, Calif., ku Yolo County, akufotokoza mokweza msika kuti "wasokonekera."

Kumayambiriro kwa mliriwu, zitini za tomato zidakhala zosafunikira pamashelefu ogulitsa malo odyera, kuvulaza iwo omwe amagulitsa ku malo odyera ndi magawo ena othandizira chakudya - izi zikuphatikizapo operekera zakudya, mabwalo a zochitika ndi malo odyera makampani, onse otsekedwa kumapeto kwa 2020. -zitini za diced - zinapita mtedza.

"Mukadangogulitsa ku chakudya, sakanafuna tomato onsewo chaka chatha pomwe malo odyera adatseka. Koma mukadakhala mukugulitsa, mumapita kumwamba, ”adatero, akupitiliza kufotokoza zakukula kwakukulu pakubweretsa pizza, komwe kumagwiritsa ntchito zitini zonse za galoni, kutsatiridwa ndi kusowa kwa ketchup pomwe ma pickups ndi ntchito zoperekera chakudya zidagwira. mapaketi aang'ono onse awo.

Wantchito amakolola tomato ku San Joaquin Valley. (John Brecher wa The Washington Post)

Pamwamba pa chipwirikiti cha vuto la kupezeka, pali chiwopsezo cha coronavirus: Zikwi za ogwira ntchito m'mafamu ku California konse adwala ali pantchito. Matendawa amapezeka, ngakhale atakhala olimba katemera amakankhira.

Muller adati pali matenda ochepa kwambiri pakati pa ogwira ntchito m'mafamu ake - tomato wake amatengedwa ndi makina. Tsopano akuda nkhawa ndi kuchepa kwa antchito.

Momwe Salinas Valley yaku California idachokera kumalo otentha a covid kupita ku chitsanzo cha katemera ndi chitetezo

"Tidakwanitsa chaka chatha, koma tili pano, ndipo ogwira ntchito sakubwererabe chifukwa chowonjezera phindu la kusowa kwa ntchito, ndipo izi zakhudza mafakitale okonza nyengo," adatero Muller.

Mavuto onsewa akupangitsa kuti tomato akhale ochepa. Opanga mapurosesa adatsimikiza kuti ndi matani angati a tomato omwe angagulitse chaka chino, ndikutsitsa ndi matani opitilira miliyoni, ndipo tsopano ngakhale izo zikuwoneka mwachiyembekezo mopambanitsa. Muller adati ichi ndi chaka choyamba kuti mapurosesa sanapeze matani onse a phwetekere ankafuna kwa alimi. Iye anati: “Chaka chino tikhala ndi zinthu zochepa kwambiri zimene sitinazionepo.

Mitengo inali ikukwera kale. M’mwezi wa Epulo, pokonza tomato padziko lonse lapansi anali okwera mtengo ndi 7 peresenti kuposa nyengo zitatu zapita, malinga ndi World Processing Tomato Council. Ndipo kutentha kwachilimwechi kusanachitike, bungwe la California Tomato Growers Association linali litakambirana za mtengo m'malo mwa alimi. ndi mapurosesa a phwetekere omwe ali okwera ndi 5.6 peresenti kuposa nyengo yolima yapitayi, chifukwa, monga momwe Muller akunenera, ndalama za alimi zikukwera: “Zogula, mafuta, tepi yodontha, chilichonse chokhala ndi chitsulo, mumatchulapo, chikukwera.

Tomato wokololedwa ku San Joaquin Valley amakonzedwa ku Los Banos, Calif. (John Brecher wa The Washington Post)

"Mapulosesa a phwetekere ali ndi malo okwera mtengo kwambiri omwe amatha kuchita chinthu chimodzi chokha. Ngati sakufuna kukhala pabizinesi, akuyenera kubwereketsa phwetekere m'malo mosiya malo opanda ntchito, "adatero Swanson, katswiri wazachuma.

Kuwonjezeka kwamitengo kumeneku kukuyembekezeka kuperekedwa kwa makampani akuluakulu omwe amapanga mgwirizano ndi mapurosesa, akatswiri a zaulimi akutero. Makampani omwe amalumikizana kwambiri ndi tomato sakuwonetsanso kuti mitengo yakwera. Kraft Heinz anakana kuyankhapo za mitengo ya nkhaniyi, monganso Campbell Soup, yemwe amalima komanso purosesa ndipo amagwiritsa ntchito Mapaundi 2 biliyoni wa tomato pachaka chifukwa cha supu yake yodziwika bwino, zakumwa za V8 ndi ma sauces a Prego ndi Pace.

James Sherwood wa Morning Star Company, m’modzi mwa okonza phwetekere akuluakulu, anati n’zovuta kufotokoza mmene mitengo ingakwerere. Iye adati kukwera mitengo sikungobwera chifukwa cha chilala komanso kukwera mtengo kwa feteleza, ogwira ntchito ndi gasi. Ndipo chaka chamawa chikhoza kukhala choyipa kwambiri.

"Tili ndi zolemba zochepa pakali pano komanso vuto la madzi," adatero Sherwood, "ndipo chaka chamawa, pali alimi omwe amapanga zisankho za mbewu potengera momwe amagawira madzi. Malo osungiramo madzi ndi otsika kwambiri, mbiri yakale pakali pano ndipo ndizokhudza. "

Koma zambiri mwazosankha zamabizinesi izi zidapangidwa kusanachitike kuphulika kwaposachedwa, mbiri ya kutentha. Fresno County, omwe amalima kwambiri tomato, adawona kutentha kwamitundu itatu. Yolo, Kings, Merced ndi San Joaquin ndi omwe akutsata kwambiri pakupanga tomato, ndipo asanu onsewo ali m'gulu la "chilala chapadera", omwe ali apamwamba kwambiri pakupanga tomato. Mapu a chilala aku US. Chilala choopsa chafika ponseponse pafupifupi onse wa dziko la California, ndi mvula ndi chipale chofewa bwino pansi avareji ndi maukonde ake osungiramo madzi ocheperako kuposa masiku onse.

Muller adati mchaka chokhazikika wapereka atatu kapena anayi mapazi a madzi kwa aliyense ekala ya minda yomwe ikufunika ulimi wothirira. Chaka chino adapeza smidgen ya phazi limodzi, mainchesi 3.6 okha amadzi pa ekala. Mvula yocheperako kuposa masiku onse, komanso madzi amthirira ochepa kuposa masiku onse, zikutanthauza kuti alimi ayenera kutembenukira kumadzi apansi, omwe ndi okwera mtengo, kuti apulumutse mbewu zawo.

Greg Pruett, wamkulu wamkulu wa Ingomar Packing Company, wayima m'munda. (John Brecher wa The Washington Post)

"Ku Yolo County, tili ndi madzi apansi okhazikika komanso owonjezeranso m'madzi. Zili ngati kukhala ndi ndalama kubanki ndiye tikutulutsa madzi pansi ngati kuchotsa,” adatero. "Tikungoyang'ana zala zathu kuti madzi azitha kudzisamalira okha. Izi zadzetsa nkhawa zatsopano. ”

Greg Pruett, wamkulu wa Ingomar Packing Company ku Los Banos, mgwirizano wa alimi anayi, akuti zinthu zikhala zovuta kwambiri chaka chamawa, chifukwa ngakhale panali milingo yokwanira yosungiramo madzi munyengo yokulira iyi, yomwe idzakhala itatheratu. alimi akutembenukira kumadzi apansi.

Lachisanu, State Water Resources Control Board ku California idatulutsa lamulo lomwe lingaletse alimi kuti asatembenukire ku mitsinje ndi mitsinje m'mitsinje ya Sacramento ndi San Joaquin, ndikuchotsanso gwero lina lamadzi mchaka chachilala.

"Alimi adzakhala ndi madzi ovuta kwambiri kumapeto kwa nyengo yolima iyi," adatero Pruett. "Mtengowu ukuwonjezeka chaka chino - m'madzi, zitini, zinthu zina zonse, ntchito, mayendedwe - zonsezi zikuwonjezera kukwera kwamitengo yayikulu. Ndipo zimenezi n’zochepa poyerekeza ndi zimene zidzachitike chaka chamawa.”

Pansi pake, akuti: Ngati chilala chikapitilirabe ndipo madzi amalowa kwambiri, alimi ambiri sangabzale tomato chaka chamawa.

Tomato amakololedwa ku San Joaquin Valley ndi Ingomar Packing Company. (John Brecher wa The Washington Post)
Gwero:  https://www.washingtonpost.com
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